Couple Manifold Qs

[PseudoChef]

1) Does the manifold have to sit flush against the bottom of the mash tun?

2) How wide should the slits be when I cut those?

[Barley-Davidson]

1) Does the manifold have to sit flush against the bottom of the mash tun?

2) How wide should the slits be when I cut those?

1) It should, to maximize wort collection

2) As wide as you can without weakening the tubing. I recommend a little less than halfway through.

[Ronthered]

I have mine flush to bottom of MT, and slits cut a little less than half the tube so it collects from the bottom and a little off the sides

[PseudoChef]

I meant the actual width of the slits themselves...coming from SS braid land, it just seems that they need to be pretty thin or else I'm in stuck sparge territory.

And the flush thing seems iffy since I'm doing this with cpvc and the elbows and t's are going to prevent that (there's around a 1/8" offset).

I'll finish this one last piece I need to cut and then I'll post some pics.

[Ronthered]

hacksaw blade width is what mine are

[Ronthered]

you'll be fine with the gap, but won't pick up anything under it thats all. should collect plenty of wort tho.

[Shenanigans]

I used a dremel to cut my slits and a few of them got a bit wide on accident. Haven't had any problems with grain getting through or stuck sparges.

[PseudoChef]

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=490

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=491
Here you can see the offset between the T and pipe that is going to prevent the slits from laying flush...is this ok?

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/picture.php?albumid=18&pictureid=492
Sample slit...too thick?

[mr x]

My manifold is probably 1/4" off the bottom. I don't lose much, and because I double batch sparge, what I am losing is pretty weak.

I used a grinder to cut my slits, between 1/8" and 3/32" open.

[PseudoChef]

Cool...thanks guys. I'll find out tonight.

[Barley-Davidson]

Looks good.
+1 on the width of the blade and the connectors being the part that sit on the bottom.

[PseudoChef]

Worked like a charm. No stuck sparge here. Needs a little extra vorlauf as compared to a braid, but I like its durability a lot better as well as giving me the option for a fly sparge if I ever feel so inclined.

[mr x]

I usually need to vorlauf about a gallon to get a good clear wort with mine. Glad it worked out well.:)

[Evan!]

I have an extra SS domed false bottom I'd have sold ya ;) Glad it worked out!

[PseudoChef]

I have an extra SS domed false bottom I'd have sold ya ;) Glad it worked out!

Have a square cooler.

[MrMarbleHead]

Coming in a little late here, but i was gone all weekend.

That looks pretty good PC, the only thing that i would look out for if you are going to try to fly sparge is where the slots are on your manifold and the direction of wort flow.

I say where the slots are, because if you have them too close to the sides of the cooler you can promote channeling during a fly sparge. Acording to JP in how to brew, your pick-ups should be aprox ~2 inches from the side walls of your MLT, and about the same spacing from each other.

The direction of your pick ups for fly sparging should promote the wort flow toward the spigot. Yours are pushing the wort to the sides then down toward the spigot, which will work (IMO) just fine for fly sparging, but to maximize on the fly sparging they should (acording to JP) face the other way.

I tried to get the link to the pages in how to brew for you that explain all that better then i can, but the comuter i am on is blocking that website, i will have to get on the other network and post them up in a little bit.