All Electric - w/ pics

[Aust1227]

I have not surfed many posts here.. But I wanted to share my set up. All electric, plugged into a 50 amp 220 circuit.. Feel free to ask any questions. Once you go electric, you will never go back!

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/BeerRig.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/BeerRig002.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig015.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig014.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig010.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig005.jpg

[PseudoChef]

Awesome man, I definitely want to explore the electric route when I can finally have space for a sculpture like that.

[Ronthered]

Yeah, that's pretty nice, I haven't decided if I like the gas or electric route yet. I know I don't like the idea of always having to make sure I have enough gas.

[Aust1227]

Awesome man, I definitely want to explore the electric route when I can finally have space for a sculpture like that.


As you can probably see, it has wheels, so it really doesn't take up much space at all. Total area is 30" deep and 65" long.. So, not much more room than say a riding mower.

Brewing with electric has tons of advantages, but here are the biggest three i can think of.

1) You can do it inside!!
2) It is quite..
3) By far the biggest.. It is so much more safe! If your electrical crap is all grounded properly and wired correctly it is incredibly safe. The hottest anything on the equipment gets is 212 degrees, no red hot steel kettle bottoms, no burning your arm hair while dumping sparge water.. It is relaxing and fun to brew!

[mr x]

Very nice. I'm 3/4 of the way to getting my electric set-up finished. What are you using for elements for for you bk and HLT? What kind of power output do you run for the boil kettle?

[Ó Flannagáin]

Stupid question here, but what do you use to heat?

[Aust1227]

Stupid question here, but what do you use to heat?

Not a stupid question. There are three heating elements (think hot water heaters) in the system. A 5500 high density element in the HLT. A 1500 low density in the rims. And a 6000 watt ultra low density element in the boil kettle. Below is a better picture.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig008.jpg

[Aust1227]

Very nice. I'm 3/4 of the way to getting my electric set-up finished. What are you using for elements for for you bk and HLT? What kind of power output do you run for the boil kettle?

Go with the biggest bang for your buck on the HLT.. Density doesn't matter, you can't scorch water..

I bought my crap from www.plumbingsupply.com..

The BK is much more important. You need to get a low density, or ultra low desnsity unit.. 02963 is the model number from plumbing supply.. It works awesome and my color is right on.

[Ó Flannagáin]

That is sweet!! On your picture of your stand with the kettles on it, which one is your MLT and how do you keep it's temp constant?

[Aust1227]

Inside of this...http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig010.jpg
there is a small water heater element.. Water is pumped across the element and back into the MLT.. at which point there is a thermocoupler that reads its temp and sends it to this
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z267/Aust15/FinishedRig013.jpg
This is a PID, it has two displays.. One for teh current temp, and one for the desired temp.. It acts like a thermostat, when it is too cold, it turns the element on, when the water is too hot, it turns off..

I just sit back and drink beer while the machine brews my beer (well, it isn't quite that sample, but it is nice)

[Ó Flannagáin]

That. Is. Awesome.

...

I really need to update my setup

[mr x]

20 amps is all I can handle because I'm using a variac for keggle power, so I'm limited to 4500W, but from what I have read, that is more than enough power to boil. Probably use 4500 on the HLT as well. Do you recall your controller setting for boiling on the keggle?

[Aust1227]

20 amps is all I can handle because I'm using a variac for keggle power, so I'm limited to 4500W, but from what I have read, that is more than enough power to boil. Probably use 4500 on the HLT as well. Do you recall your controller setting for boiling on the keggle?

My pids have a manual setting. I start the BK at 100% until it starts to roll. Then cut it back to keep my desired boil.. Usually I let it ride at the 40% level, that is a vigorous boil.. I can keep a slight boil at 18%

[mr x]

Wow, boil at 40%. That insulation really does the trick. I was thinking over 3000 watts to maintain a vigorous boil. Are those 60 amp ssrs from eBay?

[Aust1227]

www.auberins.com. They are only 25 amp SSRS, which is dangerously close to the 23 amps it could push at 240v, but we haven't had any issues since we put in the heat sinks.. Prior to the heat sinks we lost a few!

The insulation is 3/8" closed cell volara sold from www.yourautotrim.com it works real nice, and looks good. Closed cell is key, it won't take in any moisture.

[Redweasel]

Wow! Very nice dude! This is something I'd be very interested in building. I plan on moving to a new appartment soon with a brew room but still have to brew indoors. Where did you get the idea?

[blacklab]

So, let me get this straight.

Aust1227 has the sweetest system I've seen, ever. Obviously homeboy's got a boatload of knowledge. He got booted from that other place for using the word idiot? That's straight retarded.

[PseudoChef]

So, let me get this straight.

Aust1227 has the sweetest system I've seen, ever. Obviously homeboy's got a boatload of knowledge. He got booted from that other place for using the word idiot? That's straight retarded.

Well, they don't like giving out the best knowledge, so that's probably why. They like their 1-2-3 rule mantras and not experimenting.

EDIT: Chugging.

[sanders5x]

Well, they don't like giving out the best knowledge, so that's probably why. They like their 1-2-3 rule mantras and not experimenting.

EDIT: Chugging.

that's great. Also I just finished my electric hlt, looking for one more keg before I build the rest of my setup. I am still going to boil with gas. I plan on using steam for the MLT, we shale see.

[MrMarbleHead]

And I thought my Electric HLT was cool ;)

Nice set-up man, You got a breakdown on the wiring for that sucker? and what are you using for chilling?

[rooster445]

coolest system ever got any build pics of your rims tube? Have blew any heating elements and how if you have

[Aust1227]

I did not get pictures of the rims tube itself.. But it is real simple.. Hot water heater elements are threaded, usually 1".. So, go to home depot, grab a hot water element and go the plumbing hardware section...

A 1" threaded adapter, into a 1" by 1/2" T.. into a 1" pipe.. Then a reducer... And you have yourself an inline water heater. I spent about 30 minutes grabbing different copper parts trying them all out.. Found a combo that worked. And bought it there!

[Aust1227]

And I thought my Electric HLT was cool ;)

Nice set-up man, You got a breakdown on the wiring for that sucker? and what are you using for chilling?

The co-builder of this did all the wiring.. I can hit him up to see if he kept a copy of the diagrams..

We also built a counter flow chiller that works like a charm..

[Jekster]

Damn dude I'm mighty impressed with the ingenuity of your setup. Great work!

[Ryanh1801]

That is one awesome setup, and way over my head. For some reason I can never understand those types of systems, maybe some day.

[Ó Flannagáin]

That is one awesome setup, and way over my head. For some reason I can never understand those types of systems, maybe some day.

me neither... trying hard

[Stammtisch]

Austin,
nice to see you finally signed up, have my beers made it to the final competition??

I will be back in town tonight, and cant wait to start hitting my beers again...LOL

[Aust1227]

Austin,
nice to see you finally signed up, have my beers made it to the final competition??

I will be back in town tonight, and cant wait to start hitting my beers again...LOL

Not sure. I tried not to cross reference the beers with their original labels! You will know by Sunday night though! Keep your eyes on the Sunshine challenge page!

[NWernBrewer]

Aust - nice setup you have there.

I'm still very primitive - but hopefully growing in sophistication soon.

[DrunkenSatyr]

Great DIY!

[Redweasel]

This thread has my wheels turning. I think this could be the direction I want to go next.

[Redweasel]

Do you have any problems with scorching or caremelization in the boilpot? I'm beginning to draw up plans for a similar system. Expect lots of questions to come.

[MrMarbleHead]

From what i have come across Red, and think it is mentioned in this tread as well. You want to make sure that you have an Ultra-Low-Density element in your boil kettle, the way they work helps to prevent scorching, I am not sure of the particulars on them but i am sure that someone can chime in here that knows exactly how they operate.

[javastout]

From reading (not experience here) and ULD element has a lower watts per sq inch than the others, so the total wattage is more spread out and no wort can come into contact with a high enough wattage (since it's circulating either naturally or due to stirring / pumping) to scorch. This is not the case with higher density elements.

Again this is from reading as I've been sketching & pricing for the big 50 gallon setup we're making out here.

[javastout]

Hey Aust, I saw from your post you added the Heatsink to the 25A SSR. The website says that heatsink allows it to handle 15A without active cooling, but it seems like you're saying you've got it handling 23A passively cooled?

[MrMarbleHead]

Thank you Java, that is what i was thinking it was but didn't want to post it up because i wasn't positive.

[andymck]

How are you controlling the BK element? I'd think that an on/off PID wouldn't do the job, since all it can tell you is whether or not it's boiling, and the best you could do would be either almost (but not quite) boiling or always full power. How can you keep it at a nice low boil like a manual control on a flame can give you? Not saying you can't; I'm just asking how you can.

[BrewMeister Jeff]

ALRIGHT - THAT IS ENOUGH!!!

YOU PEOPLE NEED TO STOP COMING UP WITH NEW DESIGNS AND LAYOUTS! ESPECIALLY JUST MERE WEEKS AWAY FROM THE FINISHING TOUCHES ON MY RACK. IF I CHANGE MY MIND ON MY BREW RACK ONE MORE TIME MY WIFE IS GONNA BURY ME IN THE 18 INCHES OF SNOW WE HAVE IN OUR BACKYARD.

[mr x]

How are you controlling the BK element? I'd think that an on/off PID wouldn't do the job, since all it can tell you is whether or not it's boiling, and the best you could do would be either almost (but not quite) boiling or always full power. How can you keep it at a nice low boil like a manual control on a flame can give you? Not saying you can't; I'm just asking how you can.PIDs usually have a manual setting that allows you to choose your output % anywhere from 0 to 100.

[Aust1227]

Do you have any problems with scorching or caremelization in the boilpot? I'm beginning to draw up plans for a similar system. Expect lots of questions to come.

Not at all. The ultra low density element is not a problem.. I just did a "standard American Lager (dont' ask why:" It came out just as light as a bud!!

[Aust1227]

Hey Aust, I saw from your post you added the Heatsink to the 25A SSR. The website says that heatsink allows it to handle 15A without active cooling, but it seems like you're saying you've got it handling 23A passively cooled?

Actively cooled as well by a computer fan that is working full time in the control box.

[Aust1227]

PIDs usually have a manual setting that allows you to choose your output % anywhere from 0 to 100.


That is correct! I start my boil at 100, and adjust from there based on how much I have to boil off, weather, humidity, ext..

normally I roll through at 55-60%, but I just did a 90 minute IPA were I needed to boil off almost four gallons, so I stayed right at 100 and watched it rock and roll for an hour and a half!