60 Quart Igloo Ice Cube Conversion

[MrMarbleHead]

So long time promised I am finally getting up the picks of my Mash Tun conversion. Ronthered and I built two of these, one for him and one for me.

Started out with a 60 Quart Ice Cube From Igloo, Mainly because I like that it is a square and has more of the properties of a round cooler, lends itself better to fly sparging if you choose to. And it was cheap, $25 at Wally World.

Note in the before pictures the location of the factory installed spigot and the wheels, both on the back of the cooler with the handle as well. I you are going to use the standard method of removing the old spigot and installing your ball valve in it's place you can pretty much count on not using the wheels, because when you tip it back to roll it the ball valve will hit the ground. Now being lazy like I am and not wanting to carry around 20-30 pounds of wet grain I decided to punch a new hole in the side opposite the wheels.

Before:
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/outside%20before.jpg
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/top%20before.jpg

Parts:
The parts I needed for the configuration I went with were pretty simple, All half inch pipe fittings and copper were used.
Parts for the Spigot:
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/spigot%20parts.jpg

Parts for the Manifold, Minus the copper in the middle. I ended up taking out the T's and Elbows on the top and just capping the pick-up tubes off.
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/manifold%20parts.jpg

When i was laying out the manifold, i loosely based it off of Palmers guidelines in "How to Brew". I kept the pickups about 2 inches from the sides of the cooler, and evenly spaced them out. The pick ups are 6 inches long and I slotted them with a dremmel on the bottom, you could use a hack saw too.

Manifold:
Decided not to connect the pick ups on the one end because I wasn't going to put slots there anyway and would have just been more work. Also not pictured above is a 45deg elbow that connects from the manifold up to the reducer on the pipe nipple coming through the cooler wall
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/manifold.jpg

This is where the Manifold connects to the pipe nipple coming through the cooler wall. I just used a reducer to get it down from NPT to copper pipe, I had to cut the reducer and squeeze it together slightly so that it wouldn't come disconnected when stirring. that is the only joint that is not soldered together, so i can take it out to clean it.
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/manifold-spigot.jpg

Here you can see the location of the old spigot hole in relation to where the new one was put in at. Which to punch the new hole we just took a piece of half inch copper pipe and heated it with a torch and pushed it through the side, (thanks for the tip ron).
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/top.jpg

Here is the outside of the spigot with the ball valve attached. Just used the pipe nipple and brass nut then threaded the ball valve on.
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/spigot.jpg

The finished product:
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/home2/galleries/137/outside%20of%20tun.jpg

Over all I am very happy with this mash tun, I believe Ron likes his too. I am getting 70-75% Eff out of it, which is way better then my last one, once i nail down my volumes and sparging I am sure that I will get a constant 75%. It seems to be a popular design a couple other people have told me they wanted to build one like it too.

[DrunkenSatyr]

Great build! Thanks for posting it. Mine is built but for others, do you still have the part numbers?

[Ó Flannagáin]

That's awesome man. Just the kind of write up we needed.

[MrMarbleHead]

I don't have any part numbers, didn't save them. But you can find all those parts really easily at any hardware store. I got all my parts from Menards. Lowes or Home Depot will both have the same ones.

Everything is half inch, the pipe nipple (male on both ends to go through the cooler wall) is one and a half inches long. Basically just need to figure out what shape you want your manifold to be and then get the right copper (or CPVC) fittings to make that shape.

After you make the hole (or use the exsiting one) put one of the brass nuts on the pipe nipple with an o-ring and slide through the cooler wall. then put the other o-ring and brass nut on the other side. Put the reducer on the inside and the ball valve on the outside and connect your manifold to the reducer. I put scilicone on the manifold first then installed it, to make sure the connection was sealed up really well, but it can still be taken out of there. It took more time to solder up all the joints then it did to do anything else. If you choose not to solder them it should take less then an hour to do the whole thing.

[poops4president]

Thanks for the post I wish I woulda looked at this an hour ago... before i bought my ssbraid... but when I build my manifold I will deffenantly use this as an Idea...

[ThorsSon]

I'm a complete n00b when it comes to beer brewing, especially all-grain or partial-mash. The only mash tun I have seen (other than the Blichman's at Austin Home Brew) is the 3 gallon one that Redweazel gave me (he kicks ass). That mash-tun uses ss-braid as a manifold, and I understand how it works.

However, your manifold perplexes me. As far as I can tell, your manifold is solid copper, you didn't mention drilling holes in it or anything... how does your wort drain through your manifold?

(forgive me if this is a stupid question)

[MrMarbleHead]

ThorsSon, Sorry I didn't really explain that part, Thanks for pointing that out.

On the manifold I took the six inch pickups and used a dremel and made slots in the copper about every half inch on the bottom side of the tubes. You cant see the slots in the pictures, but they are there. I only did that on the pieces that are about 6 inches long,, from what i read you want to avoid making holes in the manifold on the part that aren't going to promote wort flow to your spigot.

if you can picture it, everything in my tun flows toward the spigot, I tried to minimize the amount of leakage in the areas that would detract from the flow toward the spigot and capitalize on the paths that would.

[ThorsSon]

ThorsSon, Sorry I didn't really explain that part, Thanks for pointing that out.

On the manifold I took the six inch pickups and used a dremel and made slots in the copper about every half inch on the bottom side of the tubes. You cant see the slots in the pictures, but they are there. I only did that on the pieces that are about 6 inches long,, from what i read you want to avoid making holes in the manifold on the part that aren't going to promote wort flow to your spigot.

if you can picture it, everything in my tun flows toward the spigot, I tried to minimize the amount of leakage in the areas that would detract from the flow toward the spigot and capitalize on the paths that would.

That makes sense. Seems like a good idea to put the holes on the bottom rather that the top, too, that way you are able drain all the way to the bottom of the manifold, rather than just to the top of it.

[Ó Flannagáin]

Yep, slots down is key for a manifold not ever getting stuck.

[MrMarbleHead]

Next time I have the manifold out to clean it I will try to remember to snap a pic or two and post them up so everyone can see how they are slotted. with this design I have less than a half a pint of dead space in the tun.

[ksbrandon]

Very cool, that is one of the best homemade false bottom / filters I have come across. Most of them don't have a logical flow pattern, but yours looks like it is right on the money.

Here is my 5 gallon homemade mash tun project (http://www.homebrewgarage.com/index.php/brewing-equipment/mash-and-lauter-tun)

[murl]

Do you guys feel like this design is superior to a false bottom in the 10gal rubbermaids?

[Ronthered]

Do you guys feel like this design is superior to a false bottom in the 10gal rubbermaids?

I have never used one like your talking about. This Icecube was my first mashtun. It works great, I consistently get efficiency in the mid 80's. Although I have had a few stuck sparges, they have been when I make a wheat or rye heavy beer.

[murl]

I'm thinking about going with this and CPVC because I can build one for around $50 vs. $100ish if I go with an Igloo with the false bottom.

[Darkalex]

That's pretty. I just built this baby. Going to use him for some contertop partial mashes, maybe a baby all-grain batch. It's not ideal, but I've got a good seal. Let me know what you think.:)

[Ronthered]

I'm thinking about going with this and CPVC because I can build one for around $50 vs. $100ish if I go with an Igloo with the false bottom.

The copper isn't that much. We just went with the copper right away so we wouldn't have to do it again.

[MrMarbleHead]

I'm thinking about going with this and CPVC because I can build one for around $50 vs. $100ish if I go with an Igloo with the false bottom.

All said and done, I want to say that we have less than $40 in building these, with the copper. Of couse some things were cheaper to buy bulk of, like the elbows and what not. But you should still be able to do one up for around $50 with copper.


That's pretty. I just built this baby. Going to use him for some contertop partial mashes, maybe a baby all-grain batch. It's not ideal, but I've got a good seal. Let me know what you think.:)

That looks pretty good man. What size is it, 5 gallon? I want to get a small (2-3 gallon) cooler done up for small indoor counter top batches. For those fridays when you are home and bored out of your skull, just whip up a small 2 gallon batch of beer, you know.

[murl]

I'm torn between this 60qt igloo cooler and th 10gal rubbermaid with a false bottom. The igloo is cheaper, I'm probably leaning toward that.

[MrMarbleHead]

I'm torn between this 60qt igloo cooler and th 10gal rubbermaid with a false bottom. The igloo is cheaper, I'm probably leaning toward that.

Decisions, Decisions.

I like the flexibility of the Igloo, but really it will come down to what suits your needs and personal preference.

[Rhoobarb]

FermentEd just picked some of these at WallyMart and one has my name on it! :D The plastic wall on my current 52 qt. tun has a bad buckle area near the outlet. Plus, now that I'm doing more 10 gal. batches, I was pushing it's limits with any recipe that had ~30 lbs. of grain or more, as you can see in this pic FermentEd took the last time I brewed.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_T8N-N_nggH0/SxRjxWRmGjI/AAAAAAAAAZ0/LHNsYeYCyPc/s640/100_1146.jpg

I plan to use my current CPVC manifold. Might have to reconfigure the location of the outlet and possibly buy a couple of new couplings. Fortunately, it all pulls apart. Here it is:

http://pageproducer.arczip.com/markpan/BrewDay%2004.jpg

[murl]

Decisions, Decisions.

I like the flexibility of the Igloo, but really it will come down to what suits your needs and personal preference.

See that is the problem I don't know enough to decide.

When you made the extra hole in the cooler so you could still use the wheels you said you used hot pipe. If you went with CPVC would you just drill it out?

[MrMarbleHead]

Yeah you could just drill it with what ever size hole saw that you need.

[murl]

Does this cooler give you enough grain bed depth to do 5 gallons?

[Darkalex]

That looks pretty good man. What size is it, 5 gallon? I want to get a small (2-3 gallon) cooler done up for small indoor counter top batches. For those fridays when you are home and bored out of your skull, just whip up a small 2 gallon batch of beer, you know.[/QUOTE]

:D It's 5 gal. I'm thinking of doing partial mashes and experimental all grain batches in it. I'd love a little 2-3 gallon baby tun. Sun, I'm doing a Brown Ale, posting my recipe here. Let me know what you think!!

[MrMarbleHead]

Does this cooler give you enough grain bed depth to do 5 gallons?

Yeah you can do 5 gallon batches in it pretty easily.

[Ronthered]

Does this cooler give you enough grain bed depth to do 5 gallons?

I have even done some really small grainbill 5 gallon batches in it. No more than maybe 8 or 9 pounds of grain. Whats nice it that it's square. so you always get some sort of grain bed depth, as opposed to the rectangle coolers which will always give you a more shallow bed. Although, the round cooler will also give you a nice depth, you lack the wheels for easy transport. I also use my mash tun from time to time as a portable party keg cooler. It's nice because you can get a keg, co2 tank and ice packed in there, and have wheels to move it around. Wop and I both use a hot pipe to make holes for our ball valves, but you really don't have to, we just went with the idea of it being easy. and it was. I highly recomend these cooler for mashtuns. If they made a larger size I would even go that direction if I ever do larger than 10 gallon batches.

[murl]

Well I bought the cooler today at walmart for $30. I have a friend that is going to help me build it and the best part is he has all of the parts except the valve, and copper end caps.

[Rhoobarb]

I got mine last night. FermentEd picked it up for me at WallyMart for only $36.00.:D It looks like my current CPVC manifold will fit without modifications. I'm thinking of mounting my valve on the right side of the cooler instead of the front.

Will I be wise to fill the top with Great Stuff, or no?

[Barley-Davidson]

Will I be wise to fill the top with Great Stuff, or no?

One of the guys in my brew club cut a piece of rigid insulation to fit inside the cooler and wraps it in foil - it sits right on top of the mash, he's very happy with the way it holds temp.

[murl]

I can't wait to get this project going after Xmas. I plan to do my first all grain on we'd or Thursday.

[flyangler18]

One of the guys in my brew club cut a piece of rigid insulation to fit inside the cooler and wraps it in foil - it sits right on top of the mash, he's very happy with the way it holds temp.

I've done that as well, but usually reserve it for particularly small grainbills that would lead to an inordinately large headspace in the cooler.

[Rhoobarb]

I've done that as well, but usually reserve it for particularly small grainbills that would lead to an inordinately large headspace in the cooler.
Yeah, I found that the lid has no recess in the top like my old Igloo. It is flush with the top. At least half the beers I brew are 10 gal. batches, so I won't have much headspace. Yet the lids on these things are hollow and very lightweight. So, I went ahead and drilled a hole and sprayed some Great Stuff in it. I used up a can and still didn't fill the entire lid! I can hold it up to the light and see the empty areas. I'm going to get a couple more cans on my way home tonight.

[Ronthered]

Filling the lid with foam... I'm sorry, but you just wasted 10 or 15 bucks if not more on great stuff. Wop and I haven't done such a thing. I never really even lose a degree on a mash, even when I've mashed for 1.5 hours or more.

[murl]

I just built the manifold and got the valve pushed through and in place. I ended up using high temp silicone throughout the hole and around the nipple because the hole wasn't as neat as I had hoped. I don't have a dremmel tool so I plan to drill holes so what size would be Appropriate? Should I just drill the holes along the bottom?

[Rhoobarb]

Filling the lid with foam... I'm sorry, but you just wasted 10 or 15 bucks if not more on great stuff. Wop and I haven't done such a thing. I never really even lose a degree on a mash, even when I've mashed for 1.5 hours or more.
You're paying too much for Great Stuff! I only paid $3.57/can. Turns out it had expanded during the day and filled the entire top. Feels heavier now and I can see no light coming through, so I'm happy and saved myself having to buy more.

However, I'm pissed that I can't mount the valve on the side. The wall is too thick and not flat. It has a curve at the bottom on the sides, so it won't sit flush. I'm going to have mount it on the front (as pictured) and modify my manifold after all.:mad: I might just get a SS braid and say goodbye to my CPVC manifold.:( Not sure about the wisdom of doing that. The couple of SS braid set ups I've seen in coolers had channeling problems.

[flyangler18]

The couple of SS braid set ups I've seen in coolers had channeling problems.

The only way you'll have channeling problems with a SS braid is if you're trying to fly-sparge, and you shouldn't be trying to fly-sparge with a braid anyhow. Channeling in batch sparging is a moot point, as you probably know.

[Rhoobarb]

The only way you'll have channeling problems with a SS braid is if you're trying to fly-sparge, and you shouldn't be trying to fly-sparge with a braid anyhow. Channeling in batch sparging is a moot point, as you probably know.
Good point; I can't remember if the systems I saw were batch or fly-sparged! I'm batch sparging now, but I have been considering moving to fly sparging when I set up my 3-tiered gravity system. But that's down the road aways. I guess I better pick up another piece of CPVC, take the extra time and modify my manifold.

[Ronthered]

I fly sparge with this cooler and the copper manifold, and regularly have about 83 to 85% eff. I have never had a channeling problem either.

[flyangler18]

Yeah, a SS braid isn't going to perform well with a fly-sparge because it's effectively one giant collection point (with lots of surface area). Fly-sparging with a SS braid will always channel, it's just a reality. If you have a braid, you're limited to batch sparging. With a manifold or FB, you can either batch or fly sparge.

[Rhoobarb]

I just built the manifold and got the valve pushed through and in place. I ended up using high temp silicone throughout the hole and around the nipple because the hole wasn't as neat as I had hoped. I don't have a dremmel tool so I plan to drill holes so what size would be Appropriate? Should I just drill the holes along the bottom?
I plan to use RTV around the nipple, too. When I built my last cooler into a tun, I had small, tell-tale weeping leaks until I used the RTV. After that, no leaks at all. As for the hole size to drill for a manifold - I don't know of any hard & fast rule. Maybe a bunch of 1/16" holes?

[murl]

The silicone seems to be setting up on the inside nicely so I may actually use this thing today. I would have definetely had a leak if I didn't use silicone.

On my cooler I had to get a 2.5 inch nipple rather than the 1.5 inch that you used for anyone else that plans to build one. The 1.5inch was too short.

[Rhoobarb]

... On my cooler I had to get a 2.5 inch nipple rather than the 1.5 inch that you used for anyone else that plans to build one. The 1.5inch was too short.
Yeah, I found that out, too!:D

[JXLT]

I started out with slots only then added a 1/16" hole between each slot. Not really necessary but I was bored one day with nothing to do.

[Cookiebaggs]

Yeah, a SS braid isn't going to perform well with a fly-sparge because it's effectively one giant collection point (with lots of surface area). Fly-sparging with a SS braid will always channel, it's just a reality. If you have a braid, you're limited to batch sparging. With a manifold or FB, you can either batch or fly sparge.


Sorry but I have to throw the "bullshit flag" on this one.

I think it's depends on what size braid you have. twss

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=868

I fly sparge and regularly get in the high 80's to low 90's. I got 89% last night on an IPA.

The small copper manifold that sits over the braid is for steam infusion.

[murl]

Hey guys take a look at my manifold and tell me if you think the slots are too big. I had a heck of a time getting it flowing at first with my first all grain the other day.

How do I make the pictures big in the post like above?

[PseudoChef]

They look fine to me. Stumped as to why you had a stuck sparge.

[murl]

I don't know either after I got it going it was fine. I timed it and I was getting a bit less than a quart per minute. I am considering putting steel braid over the manifold would this help?

[Rhoobarb]

I don't know either after I got it going it was fine. I timed it and I was getting a bit less than a quart per minute. I am considering putting steel braid over the manifold would this help?
I doubt it, but I guess it's worth a try. FWIW, the slots on my CPVC manifold look a lot like yours. I put my new Ice Cube mash tun through it's first session last Saturday and here are my observations:

I brewed a Dubbel in an unheated garage! The high was 11oF. I wouldn't have brewed except that I was under a deadline. This Dubbel is part of a group brew that some of us local brewers are doing. We'll be filling a bourbon barrel with this stuff on Friday.

It was a big grain bill, ~33 lbs. The Cube held all the grain and strike water easily. I took an educated guess at my strike water temp to get to 155oF. After a bit of stirring the mash, it was dead on! I noticed steam coming out from under the lid and found that the lid does not seal as well as it should. I placed ~10 lbs. of weight on the lid and that shut it completely. Kind of a PITA, but I'll learn to live with it.

About halfway through the 60 min. mash I noticed a pinpoint leak where the valve enters the cooler. I probably lost about a cup of wort. I did check it with water prior to use and everything was fine, but the weight of the grain or heat of the mash must have caused something to open up. I guess I'll have to apply more RTV. It was nice being able to remove the lid completely, extend the handles and wheel the tun into the yard to dump the spent grains!:)

BeerSmith estimated the OG at 1.071. I took a gravity reading and hit 1.072. So, the session went well and the new mash tun made an impressive debut. The beer is happily fermenting away at ~67oF.

[flyangler18]

Hey guys take a look at my manifold and tell me if you think the slots are too big. I had a heck of a time getting it flowing at first with my first all grain the other day.

How do I make the pictures big in the post like above?

Did you just throw the valve wide open? The suction created when you open the valve full-blast can set the grain bed solid.

[murl]

I think I opened it about half way. I'm going to try it again in a few weeks.

[Ronthered]

Looks pretty close to mine and Wops, I usually don't have any problems with flow, Depends on the grain bill.

[murl]

I guess I'll try another mash and start the sparge more slowly. If that doesn't work I may try the steel braid over it. I just don't want to do an hour mash and not be able to extract the wort, but I got the last one going so I guess I can get the next one going too.

Does having two pounds of flaked adjunct in there make it more susceptible to have a stuck sparge?

[Rhoobarb]

...Does having two pounds of flaked adjunct in there make it more susceptible to have a stuck sparge?
Ta-da!:D Yeah, some people encounter stuck sparges with flaked adjuncts. I have been lucky not to. But rice hulls are supposed to help prevent that.

[murl]

Do rice hulls do anything to the flavor or mouth feel?

[davebl]

Do rice hulls do anything to the flavor or mouth feel?

Nope, just provide a better filter bead and assist in preventing stuck sparges.

[murl]

So I converted this cooler some time ago and I have had trouble two times with the nipple leaking around the outside of the cooler. When you use the handle on the valve it turns the nipple just a little inside the cooler which causes it to leak. When I first did this I heated the nipple and pushed it through the side of the cooler, I wonder if I got the hole to big some how?

The last time I worked on the nipple, I put silicone around it before I pushed it through the hole to try and help it seal off and tightened the nuts down as tight as possible with the pipe thread. It worked without leaking for the first mash, and on the second one I think after using the handle on the valve so much it lost seal and started leaking again.

Anyone have a solution to this leaking problem? I have contemplated going with some epoxy on the nipple to hold it in place because it is much more firm than silicone. Any ideas? I am using O-rings just like in the directions.

[Redweasel]

I ordered thicker o rings and washers from McMaster Carr when I ran into this same problem with my old cooler MLT. I'll hunt down the part numbers in a bit.

[murl]

Do you have any left over? Anyone have any ideas on anything other than silicone that would be better?

[Redweasel]

I could drop a couple in the mail tomorrow if you pm me your address.

[Redweasel]

Here is the part number for the ones I use. They are a touch tight on half inch fittings, but they are nice thick and durable..

314s70

[murl]

Did you only use O-rings and washers on yours to seal it off? Is yours extremely secure and won't move?

[Redweasel]

Yep, o rings and washers. It had a little wiggle to it, but was fairly solid otherwise.

[Lamppa]

when soldering the copper, what type of solder is recomended? specifically acid core? rosin core?

[MrMarbleHead]

......and tightened the nuts down as tight as possible with the pipe thread. ........

That right there can lead to problems when dealing with O-rings. If you over tighten them they can distort and squeeze out of the joint. I usually just go hand tight + 1/4 turn on my fittings with an o-ring. I have had the fittings on my mash tun since I built it so before this thread was around, and haven't had a problem with leaking yet.

You may try loosening your fittings up some, they will "seem" like they are too loose, but they are water tight.



when soldering the copper, what type of solder is recomended? specifically acid core? rosin core?

I use Lead free - Silver Bearing Solder.

[Big_John]

when soldering the copper, what type of solder is recomended? specifically acid core? rosin core?

Use the common solid core solder sold specifically for sweating copper plumbing fittings. Also use lots of flux which is made for the same purpose. Rosin core solder is normally used for electrical connections. Acid core would work on the copper, but I prefer to use the solid stuff and the brush on flux. Sweating copper is really easy once you get the hang of it. The trick is to use plumbers emery paper and/or the wire brushes made for this purpose to clean the fittings well. The fittings should be shiny clean after you wire brush them. Apply the flux with a flux brush to the ends of the pipe and the inside of the fittings. Use it liberally. Too much is better than not enough and it is cheap. Wash any flux from your hands right away. It's really rough on your skin. Then it's simply a matter of heating the pipe and fitting with a torch until the solder melts on contact with the far side of the fitting. Once you have the fitting and pipe sufficiently heated, move the torch away and apply the solder. Only reapply the heat if absoutely necessary, which it should not be if you got it hot enough initially. It's also best not to overheat the pipe and fitting. They do not need to be red hot, but only hot enough to instantly melt the solder. Once you apply the solder, it will sort of get sucked up into the fitting. Keep a damp cloth handy and use it to wipe the excess solder from the fitting immediately while it's still liquified. This will give you a more professional finished appearance. It looks bad to have globs and hardened drips of solder hanging from the fittings. It just does...Christ!

[Lamppa]

yeah i do automotive soldering so i always use rosin core. I will pick up solid core solder and get to it.

[Lamppa]

how do you clean the manifold when done? if i solder it together?

it must have to be removable from the inside of the cooler to clean?

[Barley-Davidson]

Lots (if not most) manifolds (both copper and CPVC) aren't soldered at all, just press fit. Leave the fitting between the bulkhead and manifold press fit even if you decide to sweat the other joints. You may also want to leave a few other strategic joints press fit to you can partially disassemble the manifold for cleaning.

[Barley-Davidson]

Use the common solid core solder sold specifically for sweating copper plumbing fittings. Also use lots of flux which is made for the same purpose. Rosin core solder is normally used for electrical connections. Acid core would work on the copper, but I prefer to use the solid stuff and the brush on flux. Sweating copper is really easy once you get the hang of it. The trick is to use plumbers emery paper and/or the wire brushes made for this purpose to clean the fittings well. The fittings should be shiny clean after you wire brush them. Apply the flux with a flux brush to the ends of the pipe and the inside of the fittings. Use it liberally. Too much is better than not enough and it is cheap. Wash any flux from your hands right away. It's really rough on your skin. Then it's simply a matter of heating the pipe and fitting with a torch until the solder melts on contact with the far side of the fitting. Once you have the fitting and pipe sufficiently heated, move the torch away and apply the solder. Only reapply the heat if absoutely necessary, which it should not be if you got it hot enough initially. It's also best not to overheat the pipe and fitting. They do not need to be red hot, but only hot enough to instantly melt the solder. Once you apply the solder, it will sort of get sucked up into the fitting. Keep a damp cloth handy and use it to wipe the excess solder from the fitting immediately while it's still liquified. This will give you a more professional finished appearance. It looks bad to have globs and hardened drips of solder hanging from the fittings. It just does...Christ!

Good advise right there, and here's another $.02 -
tinning flux can be a little more forgiving and IMO worth having for a novice.

[MrMarbleHead]

how do you clean the manifold when done? if i solder it together?

it must have to be removable from the inside of the cooler to clean?

The joint on mine right up next to the reducer on the inside is not soldered, and if need be I can pull the manifold out and spray it out to clean it. But most times I just clean in place in the cooler.

[Lamppa]

ok, and what size pipe do you use?

the thick expensive kind or the thin kind?

[murl]

I used all 1/2" copper for the manifold and a galvanized nippe 2.5". I ended up using a brass waste valve because lowes was out of the others, but since there isn't much pressure you can use nearly anything. I think all of the parts cost me around $35 although you may find them cheaper online. The only other thing I recommend other than the things listed on the first page are a couple of rubber washers.

[Lamppa]

All i have left is to cut the holes/ slots in my manifold.

hack-saw width is ok, how about really small slots like from a dremel cut-off wheels, I worry that would be too small and get stuck.

what size do you guys recomend?

[murl]

All i have left is to cut the holes/ slots in my manifold.

hack-saw width is ok, how about really small slots like from a dremel cut-off wheels, I worry that would be too small and get stuck.

what size do you guys recomend?

Hack saw is perfect, that's what I used. There is a pic of my manifold a few post back on this thread.

[Lamppa]

I used a dremel

pics are in my profile

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/album.php?albumid=326

Because of the members here I am ready for all grain. Both equipment and tecniques. Thanks you guys.

[MrMarbleHead]

Looks good Lamppa, good luck with the first run of it.

[Orpheus]

I've had one of the 60 qt. Igloos on the back of my mind for some time.

On Sunday, I was in Sam's Club and a guy walked by me wheeling one of these. I figured that was a sign and went in search of the garden/patio stuff.

Sure enough, they had them on for $27. I picked one up. Can't wait to fix her up for brewing!

[Rhoobarb]

Here is the part number for the ones I use. They are a touch tight on half inch fittings, but they are nice thick and durable..

314s70RW, that p/n doesn't come up when I search the McM-C webpage. I need to get some of these. Is it on this page?:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/116/3463/=6qq23a

[Beezy]

Marked. Gonna get one of these and parts this week!

[Steve Urquell]

You can convert one for ~ $10 in about 10 minutes if you want to go cheapo. Just need a
SS toilet braid $5

Inline valve $2 http://www.homebrewery.com/images/in-line-valve.jpg
A minikeg bung $1 http://www.wecomatic.com/xt/images/product_images/info_images/19_0.jpg

1 ft of 3/8 ID viyl tubing $1 (Buy about 5 ft total. You want enough to reach the bottom of your kettle when you runoff)

1 small zip tie $.10

Assemble like this:
Take out the cooler spigot
Stick plug in hole from inside
Stick hose thru plug hole
Cut ends off toilet hose and remove braid, fold one end over twice and hammer it flat, then zip tie braid to hose
Stick valve in hose sticking outside cooler (no fasteners needed here) http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

I've used my setup like this for ~ 4yrs and get 75-83% efficiency with it. I did wind a piece of SS welding wire around a pencil to form a spring and inserted it inside my braid. I've never had a stuck sparge or slow runoff with it like that.

[Beezy]

I am down. Wish I had picherz tho. I am always confused unless I can see it. Does the inline valve come from the hardware store or homebrew store? I gotta go there tomorrow or saturday anywho.

[Beezy]

Is there something else i can use instead of the minikeg bung. Dont think my store has those. They arent on the site anyway.

[Steve Urquell]

3861http://www.homebrewery.com/wine/wine-siphoning.shtml (http://www.homebrewery.com/wine/wine-siphoning.shtml) I got mine at the homebrewery ozark, MO

I got my minikeg bung at High Gravity in Tulsa, but I can't find a link to it.
3860
3859

[Steve Urquell]

Is there something else i can use instead of the minikeg bung. Dont think my store has those. They arent on the site anyway.

You can get one of these. http://weldlessfittings.com/coolerfittings.html http://weldlessfittings.com/Images/scoolerreg.jpg

[Beezy]

Ok that helps. I am piecing this together in my small brain. I need the cooler for a tailgate next week I am sure I can piece something similar together even if its not the exact thing. What about a valve from a bottling bucket, wouldnt that serve the same purpose? I am going to have to dig around both at the homebrew store and hardware store. I can do this.

[zoebisch01]

You can get one of these. http://weldlessfittings.com/coolerfittings.html http://weldlessfittings.com/Images/scoolerreg.jpg


Personally, having made mine, I would highly recommend one of these fittings. In the end the time and frustration, not to mention the fact that it will probably only be a few bucks more, this is the route I would go if I had to do it again. Oh and go 10 gallon round cooler or larger from the get-go assuming you have storage space. I have a 5 gallon and it maxes out somewhere around 14 lbs of grain plus the water to mash. Makes brewing 5 gallon batches of high gravity challenging and limited.

[PseudoChef]

Personally, having made mine, I would highly recommend one of these fittings. In the end the time and frustration, not to mention the fact that it will probably only be a few bucks more, this is the route I would go if I had to do it again. Oh and go 10 gallon round cooler or larger from the get-go assuming you have storage space. I have a 5 gallon and it maxes out somewhere around 14 lbs of grain plus the water to mash. Makes brewing 5 gallon batches of high gravity challenging and limited.

Perfectly said. If it's one thing I have learned in homebrewing, it's spend the money up front to have things that will stand the test of time. I spent money on a 5 gallon cooler that only houses hot water on occasion.

[Beezy]

No question. This cooler is 15 gallon I think thats good. I think ill just put in an order for that fitting and be done with it.

[Lamppa]

You will brew 11 gals at some point. Design all equipment to handle 11 gallon batches now to save money on having to remake any equipment. I wish I had this info as early as yoy have it now.

[Beezy]

Alright step one. Got my Igloo.

[Beezy]

Alright scavenged Home Depot for the parts. If everything fits like it does in my head then I have a nice tun for 55 total. You guys are the shit! Ill put up some pics of my version after conversion.

[Beezy]

I am putting this here so you can see. Doesnt look like I can use the exsisting hole the way it is. Its ok I dont need it right away. Not brewing this week. I want to get it ready tho.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/62dba16e-83c5-5090.jpg

[Lamppa]

No, it sticks out at an angle and will hit the floor if u use that hole. Use a spade bit that matches your nipple and drill on the opposite side.

[Beezy]

Sorry but I have to throw the "bullshit flag" on this one.

I think it's depends on what size braid you have. twss

http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=868

I fly sparge and regularly get in the high 80's to low 90's. I got 89% last night on an IPA.

The small copper manifold that sits over the braid is for steam infusion.

I like this setup here. I have to go back and get another braid because dumb ass bought one that wasn't SS.

[Beezy]

Almost finished with this. I can't find gaskets for the life of me at HD. Also the washers I found aren't quite right. So I'll try somewhere else. Hopefully I will be doing an all grain batch next weekend.

[Beezy]

Shit is holding. Going to do my first AG next weekend.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/473c9da0-d42e-7506.jpg

[Steve Urquell]

Good job man! You now have a tun and will soon be an all-grain brewer.

[Lamppa]

Beez, u nver told us about the kids!

[Beezy]

Beez, u nver told us about the kids!

Oh yeah two little brats. Thats Dracen B 2.5 and the older Adan is 6.5.

[Beezy]

Alright finished the braid ready to go tomorrow.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/473c9da0-98a8-4eaf.jpg

[Beezy]

Hit my temp. Checked at 50 minutes. Thermostat hasn't moved. Good call on the igloo.

[Lamppa]

Its size, shape, and quality nmake it an excellent choice!!! I'm glad I got the tip too! (It doesn't hurt that is costs 25.00 either.)

[Beezy]

I put the notched tubing inside my braid too thing was not even considering the idea of getting stuck.

[Lerxst]

Hit my temp. Checked at 50 minutes. Thermostat hasn't moved. Good call on the igloo.

Are you brewing today or tomorrow? Throw up a thread here when you do:
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=37

[Beezy]

Are you brewing today or tomorrow? Throw up a thread here when you do:
http://www.homebrewchatter.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=37

Its cooling now yeah. Will put up a thread now anyway. I took a few pics and have some notes. I dunno why I never noticed the sub forum. I guess because I usually view the forum by new posts via tapatalk.

[snails]

4525

would anyone see any problems with running the slits in the direction of the manifold?

[Lamppa]

I say its too long of a slit that way (hahaha long slit) im not sure i like that.

[cheesefood]

4525

would anyone see any problems with running the slits in the direction of the manifold?

Less open surface area. You get a lot more hole when you go wider instead of longer.

[snails]

Less open surface area. You get a lot more hole when you go wider instead of longer.
sweet, i ended up going with many shorter cuts. I used a hack saw, so the cuts are relatively narrow, will that lead to issues when sparging?

[wildwest450]

sweet, i ended up going with many shorter cuts. I used a hack saw, so the cuts are relatively narrow, will that lead to issues when sparging?

No, you want the opening narrow, only water escapes instead of grain.

[Beezy]

I might have to try a manifold soon. My braid is being a SOB.

[Lamppa]

Can you sweat pipe? If yes, then its easy.

[Beezy]

Can you sweat pipe? If yes, then its easy.

What do you mean sweat? Solder? I can solder but there are other ways too eh. PVC?

[wildwest450]

CPVC is cheaper and easier.

[Beezy]

How exactly am I
connecting the PCV to my existing valve though? I haven't put much though into it but I have a coping saw. What else do I need besides the PVC. I want to sort this out before all these wheat beers and squash beer I have planned.

[wildwest450]

First get CPVC, it's for hot water. There's a million ways to connect it depending on your setup, I had a cpvc male thread adapter that screwed right into a ball valve. A coping saw will be tedious, but with a thin blade will make some righteous slots.

[Beezy]

First get CPVC, it's for hot water. There's a million ways to connect it depending on your setup, I had a cpvc male thread adapter that screwed right into a ball valve. A coping saw will be tedious, but with a thin blade will make some righteous slots.

What would be the preferred tool to cut the slots? I have power tools but I would imagine a chop saw blade would be too wide?

Perhaps a thin blade on the table saw would make quick work of it?

[wildwest450]

Any hand held tool is fine, it will just take a while, I borrowed a dremel and it was awesomely fast. A hacksaw blade will work as well.

[TyTanium]

A hacksaw blade will work as well.
Yeah, that's what I used for my copper manifold. Took me a few months before I wanted to look at a hacksaw again. So many freaking slits. Probably easier with CPVC though.

But if you have a dremel...


Also, my manifold is entirely copper with just dry fittings; no sweating. Why solder if I'm cutting a bajillion holes in it anyway?

[eschwaa31]

I have a cpvc manifold with tiny holes drilled in the bottom, no problems so far

It's nice to be able to take it apart quickly and rinse it out after every batch

[Lamppa]

My buddy has cpcv and that bitch has come apart twice, in front of me. I have brewed with him 5 times and twice, in the mash, it fell apart.
Others here have great success but not my buddy.
I love my copper.

[moontractor]

4572 I'm a cpvc guy, myself. I personally don't understand these Copper Sweaters.

[Beezy]

4572 I'm a cpvc guy, myself. I personally don't understand these Copper Sweaters.

Is that the way you have it when in use or just for show? Curious because it would make more sense to me to have the slits facing down or an I wrong there?

[Boomhauer]

I used a hack saw on my first attempt but kept getting stuck sparges. I also didn't solder anything on my first attempt but when my sparge stuck and I blew into it, the manifold blew apart. Also when using a mash paddle i would inevitably bump the manifold and knock it apart. My second attempt I drilled holes and soldered all the fittings... I have only had a couple stuck sparges since then but no big deal. I think I drilled 1/8" holes.

You don't really need small slits because the grain will pack at the bottom and create a filter for the sparge. I did a complete sparge once with my manifold in pieces.

Sent via telepathy

[Boomhauer]

Is that the way you have it when in use or just for show? Curious because it would make more sense to me to have the slits facing down or an I wrong there?

Yes. Slits or holes should be facing down.

Sent via telepathy

[wildwest450]

Yes. Slits or holes should be facing down.

Sent via telepathy

Or on their knees.

[Beezy]

I used a hack saw on my first attempt but kept getting stuck sparges. I also didn't solder anything on my first attempt but when my sparge stuck and I blew into it, the manifold blew apart. Also when using a mash paddle i would inevitably bump the manifold and knock it apart. My second attempt I drilled holes and soldered all the fittings... I have only had a couple stuck sparges since then but no big deal. I think I drilled 1/8" holes.

You don't really need small slits because the grain will pack at the bottom and create a filter for the sparge. I did a complete sparge once with my manifold in pieces.

Sent via telepathy

Right. I have a plug in the other side of mine. When it sticks I just put a strainer bag in my bucket and let it rip out of there. There usually isn't much grain in the bag.

[Boomhauer]

Or on their knees.

Nice.

Sent via telepathy

[Beezy]

Or on their knees.

Yesterday morning I rediscovered this. Sage advice.

[Boomhauer]

Yesterday morning I rediscovered this. Sage advice.

I think he was referring to a woman.

Sent via telepathy

[moontractor]

Is that the way you have it when in use or just for show? Curious because it would make more sense to me to have the slits facing down or an I wrong there? Theyre on both sides. My manifold is very small, and I'm self-conscious about it, so I felt that I needed more slits.

[Hugh_Jass]

The slits on the top will prevent the tun from completely draining. They prematurely break the siphon, leaving some wort that would otherwise drain to the kettle.

[Lamppa]

Slits on top is bad for two reasons. One is listed above, the other is that the grain provides a natural filter bed. The grain flows right into the slits on the top. Its just silly on top.

Maybe thats why beezy has such problems, i didnt know he had slits on top.

[moontractor]

No shit? Damn. Hadn't thought about that, makes sense though. Well, thats easy enough to fix. Thanks

[Beezy]

I think he was referring to a woman.

Sent via telepathy

Oh :(